Nsalu zoluka zimapangidwa makamaka ndi ulusi wa zomwe zikuchokera

 

Zigawo zazikulu za nsalu zoluka zikuphatikizapo: thonje, viscose, poliyesitala, akiliriki, nayiloni, hemp, ubweya, silika, spandex ndi zina zotero.

Kodi matanthauzo ndi mawonekedwe a zida zosiyanasiyana zopangira ndi zotani?

1. Ulusi wa Thonje

Ulusi wa thonje ndi mtundu wa ulusi wambewu womwe umapangidwa potalikitsa ndi kukulitsa ma cell a epidermal a ovule ovunditsidwa, omwe ndi osiyana ndi ulusi wamba wamba. Chigawo chake chachikulu ndi cellulose. Cellulose ndi polima wachilengedwe. Ma cellulose a thonje wokhwima bwino amakhala pafupifupi 94%. Komanso, lili ndi pang'ono polypetalous, sera, mapuloteni, mafuta, madzi sungunuka zinthu, phulusa ndi zamoyo zina zogwirizana. thonje CHIKWANGWANI chili ndi mphamvu zambiri, mpweya wabwino umalowa bwino, umalimbana ndi makwinya osalimba komanso kusakhazikika bwino. Kukana kutentha kwabwino, kwachiwiri kwa hemp; Kusakwanira kwa asidi, kumachepetsa kukana kwa alkali kutentha; Imalumikizana bwino ndi utoto, utoto wosavuta, chromatography wathunthu komanso utoto wowala. Chifukwa ulusi wa thonje uli ndi zinthu zambiri zabwino kwambiri, ndi chimodzi mwazinthu zofunika kwambiri pamakampani opanga nsalu.

2. Viscose

Viscose, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti thonje laumunthu, ndi mtundu wa ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu. Viscose CHIKWANGWANI ndiye mtundu waukulu wa ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu komanso wachiwiri pamitundu yayikulu kwambiri yamankhwala ku China. Zopangira zazikulu za ulusi wa viscose ndi zamkati zamankhwala, kuphatikiza zamkati za thonje ndi zamkati zamatabwa. Ma cellulose oyera amasiyanitsidwa ndikusinthidwanso ndi zomwe zimachitika. Viscose fiber ili ndi katundu wabwino wa hygroscopic, pansi pamikhalidwe yamlengalenga. Mlingo wobwezeretsa chinyezi ndi pafupifupi 13%. Pambuyo pakukula kwa hygroscopic, m'mimba mwake imatha kukulitsidwa ndi 50%, kotero kuti nsalu ya viscose imamva molimba pambuyo pa madzi, kuchuluka kwa shrinkage ndi kwakukulu. Kapangidwe kake ka viscose fiber ndi kofanana ndi thonje, motero imakhala yolimbana ndi alkali kuposa asidi, koma kukana kwa alkali ndi kukana kwa asidi ndizoyipa kuposa thonje. Kudaya kwa ulusi wa viscose kumafanana ndi thonje. Ulusi wa viscose uli ndi katundu wabwino wa hygroscopic, wosavuta kuyipitsa, wosavuta kupanga magetsi osasunthika, ndipo umakhala ndi spinnability yabwino, yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri muzovala zosiyanasiyana, zovala ndi zina.

Nsalu yopangidwa ndi viscose fiber ndi yofewa, yosalala, yopuma komanso yomasuka kuvala. Lili ndi mtundu wowala komanso kufulumira kwamtundu wabwino pambuyo pa utoto. Zoyenera kupanga zovala zamkati, zovala zakunja ndi zinthu zosiyanasiyana zokongoletsera.

3. Acrylic Fiber

Ulusi wa Acrylic ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi polyacrylonitrile kapena acrylonitrile copolymer wokhala ndi 85% acrylonitrile. Acrylic fiber elasticity ndi yabwino. Elongation 20% ya rebound rate imatha kukhalabe ndi 65%, fluffy curl komanso yofewa. Ulusi wa acrylic uli ndi kukhazikika kwabwino kwambiri, ndipo mphamvu zake zimangotsika ndi 20% zikawonekera panja kwa chaka chimodzi. Kachitidwe ka akiliriki ulusi ndi wofanana kwambiri ndi ubweya. Kusungirako kutentha ndi 15% kuposa ubweya wa ubweya, wotchedwa ubweya wopangira. Lili ndi ubwino wa kufewa, kudzitukumula, utoto wosavuta, mtundu wowala, kukana kuwala, antibacterial, osaopa tizilombo ndi zina zotero. Malinga ndi zofunikira pakugwiritsa ntchito mosiyanasiyana, imatha kukhala yopota kapena yosakanikirana ndi ulusi wachilengedwe. Zovala zake zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pazovala, zokongoletsera, mafakitale ndi zina.

4. Polyester

Ulusi wa polyester ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi poliyesitala wopota womwe ndi polycondensation wa organic dibasic acid ndi dibasic alcohol. Anapangidwa mu 1941, ndiye mtundu woyamba waukulu wa ulusi wopangidwa. Polyester CHIKWANGWANI ndiye mwayi waukulu kwambiri wokana makwinya ndipo katundu wa conformal ndiwothandiza kwambiri, wokhala ndi mphamvu zambiri komanso kuthekera kochira. Ndi yamphamvu komanso yolimba, yosagwira makwinya, yopanda kusita, yopanda ndodo. Ulusi wa polyester uli ndi mphamvu zapamwamba, modulus yapamwamba komanso kuyamwa kwamadzi otsika. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri ngati nsalu zachitukuko komanso nsalu zamakampani. Monga nsalu, ulusi wa polyester staple ukhoza kuwomba mwangwiro ndipo ndi woyenera kusakanikirana ndi ulusi wina. Zitha kuphatikizidwa ndi ulusi wachilengedwe monga thonje, hemp ndi ubweya, komanso ndi ulusi wowonjezera wamankhwala monga viscose, acetate ndi polyacrylonitrile. Nsalu zokhala ngati thonje, zaubweya komanso zonyezimira zopangidwa ndi kupota koyera kapena kusakaniza nthawi zambiri zimakhala ndi mawonekedwe abwino kwambiri a ulusi wa poliyesitala, monga kukana makwinya ndi kukopa, kukhazikika kwa mawonekedwe, kukana kuvala komanso kuvala kwa nsalu, pamene zolakwa zoyambirira za ulusi wa poliyesitala, monga magetsi osasunthika ndi zovuta zopaka utoto pakupanga zovala, mayamwidwe osauka a thukuta ndi mpweya, komanso kusungunuka mosavuta m'mabowo pakachitika Mars, etc. Itha kuchepetsedwa ndikuwongolera ndi kusakaniza kwa hydrophilic. fiber kumlingo wina. Ulusi wopotoka wa poliyesitala umagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka kuluka nsalu zokhala ngati silika. Itha kulumikizidwanso ndi ulusi wachilengedwe kapena ulusi wamankhwala, kapena ndi silika kapena ulusi wina wamankhwala. Kuphatikizika uku kumakhala ndi maubwino angapo a polyester.

Ulusi wopangidwa ndi poliyesitala (makamaka otsika zotanuka DTY) ndi wosiyana ndi ulusi wamba wa poliyesitala wokhala ndi fluffiness yayikulu, crimp yayikulu, tsitsi lolimba, kufewa komanso kutalika kwa zotanuka (mpaka 400%). Nsalu yoluka imakhala ndi makhalidwe odalirika osungira kutentha, chivundikiro chabwino ndi drape, kuwala kofewa ndi zina zotero. Ndizoyenera kwambiri kuluka nsalu za suti monga nsalu za ubweya ndi serge, zovala zakunja, malaya ndi nsalu zosiyanasiyana zokongoletsera monga makatani, nsalu ya tebulo, nsalu ya sofa ndi zina zotero.

5. nayiloni

Nylon, yomwe imadziwikanso kuti Polyamide, idapangidwa ndi wasayansi wodziwika bwino waku America Carothers komanso gulu lofufuza zasayansi motsogozedwa ndi iye. Aka kanali koyamba kuti ulusi wopangidwa padziko lapansi. Nayiloni ndi mawu oti ulusi wa polyamide (nayiloni). Maonekedwe a nayiloni amapangitsa kuti nsalu ziziwoneka zatsopano. Kaphatikizidwe kake ndikupambana kwakukulu mumakampani opanga fiber, komanso gawo lofunikira kwambiri mu chemistry ya polima. Ubwino waukulu wa nayiloni ndikuti kukana kwa nayiloni ndikokwera kuposa ulusi wina uliwonse, kukana kuvala ndikokwera ka 10 kuposa thonje, kuwirikiza ka 20 kuposa ubweya, kuwonjezera pang'ono ulusi wina wa nayiloni munsalu yosakanikirana, kumatha kusintha kwambiri kukana kwake. , pamene anatambasulidwa kwa 3-6%, zotanuka kuchira mlingo akhoza kufika 100%; Imatha kupirira makumi masauzande akupindika popanda kusweka. Mphamvu ya ulusi wa nayiloni ndi 1-2 kuposa thonje, 4-5 nthawi zambiri kuposa ubweya wa ubweya, ndi katatu kuposa viscose fiber. Komabe, ulusi wa polyamide uli ndi kutentha kosakwanira komanso kukana kuwala komanso kusasungidwa bwino, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zovala zisakhale zosalala ngati poliyesitala. Ulusi wa nayiloni ukhoza kusakanizidwa kapena kupota koyera muzovala zosiyanasiyana. Ulusi wa nayiloni umagwiritsidwa ntchito pamakampani oluka ndi silika, monga masitonkeni a nayiloni, chopyapyala cha nayiloni, ukonde wa udzudzu, zingwe za nayiloni, zovala zakunja za nayiloni, silika wa nayiloni kapena zinthu za silika zolukana. Ulusi wa nayiloni umagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri kuphatikiza ndi ubweya kapena mankhwala ena amtundu waubweya wamankhwala kuti apange mitundu yosiyanasiyana - yosamva nsalu.

6. Flax Fiber

Ulusi wa fulakesi ndi ulusi womwe umapezeka ku zomera zambiri za fulakesi. Ulusi wa fulakesi ndi ulusi wa cellulose womwe nsalu yake imakhala ndi zinthu zofanana ndi thonje. Flax Fiber (kuphatikiza ramie ndi fulakesi) amatha kuwomba mwangwiro kapena kusakanikirana kukhala nsalu. Linen ali ndi makhalidwe a mphamvu mkulu, ogwira mayamwidwe chinyezi ndi amphamvu matenthedwe madutsidwe, makamaka mphamvu ya ulusi woyamba zachilengedwe. Ulusi wa fulakesi uli ndi zabwino zomwe ulusi wina sungafanane nawo: umagwira ntchito bwino mayamwidwe a chinyezi ndi mpweya wabwino, kutentha mwachangu komanso kuwongolera, kozizira komanso kowoneka bwino, kutuluka thukuta sikuyandikira, mawonekedwe opepuka, mphamvu zolimba, kupewa tizilombo ndi mildew, magetsi osasunthika. , Nsalu sizosavuta kuipitsa, mtundu wofewa komanso wowolowa manja, wowawa, woyenera kutulutsa ndi kutulutsa khungu la munthu. Komabe, kukula kwa ulusi wa fulakesi kwakhala kochepa chifukwa cha kukhuthala kwake kocheperako, kukana kwa crease, kukana abrasion komanso kumva kukankha. Komabe, ndi chitukuko chaukadaulo wosiyanasiyana wochiritsira komanso kukonzanso pambuyo pake, zina mwazovuta zake zachilengedwe zasinthidwa kwambiri. Kafukufuku akuwonetsa kuti pakati pa ulusi wambiri wa nsalu, ulusi wa fulakesi ndi ulusi wachilengedwe womwe umagwira ntchito kwambiri. Ulusi wa fulakesi nthawi zonse wakhala umodzi mwa ulusi waukulu wa nsalu ku China ndipo umadziwika kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi.

7. Ubweya

Ubweya umapangidwa makamaka ndi mapuloteni. Kugwiritsa ntchito ubweya wa anthu kumatha kuyambika ku Nyengo ya Neolithic, kuchokera ku Central Asia kupita ku Mediterranean ndi madera ena adziko lapansi kufalikira, motero kukhala nsalu yayikulu kwambiri ku Asia ndi Europe. Ulusi waubweya ndi wofewa komanso wotanuka, ndipo ukhoza kugwiritsidwa ntchito popanga nsalu monga ubweya, ubweya, zofunda, zomverera ndi zovala. Zogulitsa zaubweya ndizolemera kwambiri, zimateteza bwino kutentha, zomasuka kuvala ndi zina zotero. Ubweya ndi chinthu chofunikira kwambiri pamakampani opanga nsalu. Ili ndi ubwino wa elasticity yabwino, kuyamwa kwa chinyezi chokhazikika komanso kusunga kutentha kwabwino. Koma chifukwa cha mtengo wokwera, ndi thonje, viscose, poliyesitala ndi zinthu zina zophatikizika ndi ulusi. Nsalu zaubweya zimatchuka chifukwa cha kukongola kwawo komanso kutonthoza, ndipo cashmere makamaka ali ndi mbiri ya "golide wofewa".

8. Silika

Silika, yemwe amadziwikanso kuti silika waiwisi, ndi mtundu wa ulusi wachilengedwe. Munthu ankagwiritsa ntchito ulusi wina waukulu wa nyama. Silika ndi mbali ya zinthu zachitukuko zakale za ku China. Silika ndiye ulusi wopepuka, wofewa kwambiri komanso wabwino kwambiri m'chilengedwe. Ikhoza kubwezeretsedwa mosavuta ku chikhalidwe chake choyambirira pambuyo pochotsedwa ku mphamvu yakunja. Nsalu ya silika imakhala ndi mpweya wabwino kwambiri komanso kutulutsa chinyezi. Silika amapangidwa makamaka ndi mapuloteni a nyama ndipo ali ndi mitundu 18 ya ma amino acid ofunika kwambiri m'thupi la munthu, omwe amatha kulimbikitsa mphamvu zama cell a khungu ndikuletsa kuuma kwa mitsempha. Kuvala nsalu za silika kwa nthawi yayitali kumatha kuletsa kukalamba kwa khungu ndipo kumakhala ndi mphamvu yapadera yoletsa kuyabwa pamatenda ena apakhungu. Nsalu ya silika ili ndi mbiri ya "khungu lachiwiri la thupi la munthu" ndi "fiber queen".

9. Spandex

Spandex ndi mtundu wa ulusi wotanuka, dzina ladongosolo la polyurethane fiber. Spandex idakwezedwa bwino ndi Bayer ku Germany mu 1937, ndipo DuPont ku United States idayamba kupanga mafakitale mu 1959. Kulimba kwake ndi 2 ~ 3 kuwirikiza kawiri kuposa silika wa latex, kachulukidwe kakang'ono kamene kamakhala kocheperako, komanso kosagwirizana ndi kuwonongeka kwa mankhwala. Spandex imakhala ndi asidi wabwino komanso kukana kwa alkaline, kukana thukuta, kukana madzi a m'nyanja, kukana kuyeretsa kouma komanso kukana kuvala.

Spandex ndi ulusi wopangidwa wokhala ndi kutalika kocheperako (kupitilira 400%), modulus yotsika komanso kuchira kwamphamvu kwambiri. Chifukwa spandex ili ndi kuchuluka kwakukulu, imatha kugwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga zovala zotambasula kwambiri. Monga: Zovala za akatswiri, suti yolimbitsa thupi, suti yosambira, yosambira, mpikisano wosambira, suti ya basketball, bra, suspenders, mathalauza otsetsereka, ma jeans, akabudula, masokosi, zotenthetsera miyendo, matewera, zothina, zovala zamkati, onesie, zovala zoyandikira, lacing, zovala zodzitchinjiriza zopangira opaleshoni, zovala zodzitchinjiriza za mphamvu zogwirira ntchito, kupalasa njinga zazifupi zazifupi, vest yolimbana, suti yopalasa, zovala zamkati, zovala zogwirira ntchito, Zovala zabwino, ndi zina zambiri.